| MATERIALS LIST--CHAIR AND OTTOMAN |
| Key |
No. |
Size and description (use) |
 |
| A1 |
2 |
4-1/4 x 4-1/4 x 5-1/4" cedar
(chair leg) |
| A2 |
2 |
4-1/4 x 4-3/4 x 5-1/2" cedar
(chair leg) |
| B |
1 |
1 x 4-7/8 x 26" cedar (seat
rail) |
| C |
2 |
1 x 4-7/8 x 27" cedar (seat
rail) |
| D |
1 |
1 x 4-7/8 x 25-1/2" cedar
(seat rail) |
| E |
2 |
1 x 5 x 20-1/2" cedar (back
rail) |
| F |
2 |
1 x 3-1/2 x 29-1/4" cedar
(back stile) |
| G |
4 |
1 x 3-1/2 x 20-3/4" cedar
(back slat) |
| H |
2 |
1 x 4-1/2 x 13-1/2" cedar (arm
post) |
| I |
2 |
1 x 3-1/8 x 24-13/16" cedar
(cleat) |
| J1 |
1 |
3/4 x 3-1/2 x 24" cedar (foot
rail) |
| J2 |
1 |
3/4 x 2-3/4 x 24" cedar (foot
rail) |
| K |
2 |
1 x 2-3/8 x 11" cedar
(bracket) |
| L |
2 |
1 x 1-1/2 x 3-11/16" (arm
block) |
| M1 |
2 |
1 x 3-3/4 x 27-5/16" cedar
(arm) |
| M2 |
2 |
1 x 2 x 3-3/4" cedar (arm
lip) |
| N |
5 |
3/4 x 3-1/2 x 24" cedar
(slat) |
| O |
4 |
4-1/4 x 4-1/4 x 5-1/4" cedar
(leg) |
| P |
4 |
1 x 4-7/8 x 26" cedar
(rail) |
| Q |
2 |
1 x 3-1/8 x 24" cedar
(cleat) |
| R |
2 |
3/4 x 3-1/4 x 24" cedar (foot
rail) |
| S |
5 |
3/4 x 3-1/2 x 24" cedar
(slat) |
| T |
14 |
1/4 x 2" lagscrew and
washer |
| U |
as reqd. |
1-1/2" No. 8 fh
woodscrew |
| V |
2 |
2" No. 8 fh
woodscrew |
| W |
as reqd. |
3/8"-dia. wooden
plug |
| Misc.: 120-,
150-, 220-grit sandpaper; Titebond II,
water-resistant glue; Sikkens Cetol 1, cedar,
exterior finish. |
Making The Legs
To make the short, thick legs,
first laminate two blanks from which you'll saw the eight pieces. Make
each blank by gluing together five pieces of 24-in.-long x 1-in.-thick
stock. Be sure to use a water-resistant glue--we used Titebond II for
this project. Spread glue on the mating surfaces (Photo 1) and apply
clamps to pull the boards tight (Photo 2). Allow the glue to cure for at
least an hour. Then, remove the clamps and scrape off the excess.Use
a sharp plane to even the edges of the stacks so they're square to the
faces. Then, cut each stack into four 5-1/4-in.-long leg blanks on your
band saw. Lay out the inner angled face on each blank, and cut each
piece to the waste side of the line (Photo 3). Next, lay out the second
inner angled face for each leg and make those cuts. Note that the rear
chair legs are different than the front--they require a third angled cut
on their rear face. Use a sharp plane to smooth and flatten the sawn
surfaces. Cut the chamfers on the top edges of the outer leg faces with
a block plane.
|
 |
| To make the laminated leg blanks, first
use a roller to spread glue on 1-in.-thick x
5-in.-wide pieces of cedar. |
 |
| Arrange the boards in stacks and apply
clamps. When the glue is dry, plane the edges
square and smooth. |
 |
| After cutting 5-1/4-in.-long blocks from
the laminated blanks, lay out the angled faces and
cut to the line. |
Cutting The JointsFirst, rip and crosscut
the stock for both the ottoman and chair rails. Note
that the back ends of the chair side rails are cut at an
80° angle. Construct a jig to cut the box joints by
first using your dado blade to cut a 13/16-in.-wide
notch in a wooden auxiliary miter-gauge fence. Then,
install a guide block in the notch and mount the fence
on your miter gauge so it's 13/16 in. to the right of
the blade. To cut the box joints, first clamp one of the rails
to the jig with its end on the saw table and its edge
against the guide block (Photo 4). Pass the stock over
the blade to cut the first notch. Move the stock so that
the notch slips over the guide block, clamp and cut the
second notch (Photo 5). Advance the piece one more time,
placing the second notch over the block to register the
third and final notch. Cut all the box-joint notches
using this technique. Then, lay out the mortises in the
back of the side rails, and rout them with a spiral
up-cutting bit (Photo 6). Square the ends with a sharp
chisel (Photo 7).
Cut the parts for the chair back and arm assemblies
to size, and lay out the mortises for all the joints,
including those for the arm posts in the chair side
rails. Readjust the router edge guide and rout the
mortises. It's easiest to make these cuts if you first
clamp two pieces together with their ends staggered so
that the router has a broader surface on which to ride.
When the routing is done, square the ends of the
mortises.
With the dado blade in the table saw, cut the tenon
cheeks on the ends of the chair rear seat rail (Photo
8). Note that these tenons are unusual in that they're
flush to the inside surface of the rail. Adjust the
blade height to cut the tenon cheeks on the back-slat,
back-rail and arm-post tenons. Then, cut the shoulders
at the top and bottom edges of all the tenons. Switch to
a regular blade, and cut the bevels along the top and
bottom edges of the rear seat rail. Test fit all
mortise-and-tenon joints.
|
 |
| Make a table saw jig for cutting the box
joints. Hold the rail on end and against the jig
stop to make the first cut. |
 |
| To make the remaining box-joint cuts,
shift the last sawn notch over the stop and pass
the stock over the dado blade. |
 |
| Rout the mortises in the chair side
rails for the rear rail. Then, rout all mortises
for the back assembly and arm
posts. |
 |
| Use a sharp chisel to square the mortise
ends. Since cedar is so soft, hand pressure is
sufficient to cut the wood. |
 |
| Use a dado blade to cut the chair
rear-rail tenons. Note that these tenons are flush
with the inner rail face. |
AssemblyUse a small brush to apply glue to
the box joints on the ottoman rails (Photo 9). Assemble
the rails and apply clamps to pull the joints tight.
Compare opposite diagonal measurements to make sure that
the frame is square. Then, apply glue and assemble the
chair rear rail to the side rails, join the front box
joints, clamp and check for square. Cut the support cleats to size, and screw them to the
inside of the side rails of the chair and ottoman (Photo
10). Then, cut the foot rails to specified size. Note
that the back foot rail on the chair has a 10° bevel on
its back edge so that it fits tightly against the rear
rail. Fasten the foot rails to the side cleats with
galvanized deck screws (Photo 11).
Position the ottoman legs under the foot rails with
their outside faces flush with the outer faces of the
side rails. Bore pilot holes and fasten the legs with
1/4 x 2-in. lagscrews and washers (Photo 12). Fasten the
chair legs in the same
way.
|
 |
| Apply glue and assemble the ottoman
rails. For the chair, first assemble the rear/side
joints, then add the front
rail. |
 |
| Cut the support cleats to size, and
attach them to the sides of the chair and ottoman
with galvanized deck screws. |
 |
| Screw the foot rails to the cleats. Note
that the back edge of the rear chair foot rail is
beveled to fit the back rail. |
 |
| Fasten the feet by driving lagscrews
through the foot rails. Bore pilot holes to avoid
splitting the feet. |
| |
 |
| Glue the chair back slats to the back
rails. When the glue is dry, apply glue and add
the back stiles. |
 |
| Temporarily clamp the chair back to the
base and fasten the parts with galvanized deck
screws. |
 |
| Spread glue in the side-rail mortises
and on arm-post tenons. Join the parts and clamp
to pull the joints tight. |
 |
| Cut the rear arm support blocks to
shape, then glue them to the outside edges of the
chair back. |
 |
| After cutting the arms to shape and
routing the arm-post mortises, glue beveled blocks
to the end of each. |
 |
| Bore screwholes and 3/8-in. counterbores
for plugs in the slats. Then, secure the slats
with screws. |
 |
| Use a drill press and plug cutter to
make the plugs. Glue them over the screwheads and
pare them flush. |
